It happens so often. I chance across a place in a city – then fruitlessly search high and low for it again. Finally chance across it once more – only to lose it again. This little Nanjing sushi shop fell squarely into that category.

It’s way down the southern end of Chiangxiang Road, about the limit of my evening foraging limit. I decided that was the key to finding it. Just about when I had that feeling that I must have walked past and not recognised it – just keep going. Eventually the red Japanese lantern hanging outside would magically appear. Inside, the owners were always happy to see me again (quite a contrast to the usual indifference to customers in Nanjing). Presumably entirely unaware of my repeated travails to find him, it seemed they were always expecting me to arrive. A plate of the ‘works’ would be intermediately flourished. I never could find this on the menu, but at 36 RMB, seemed to be the most expensive thing they offered. It seemed heartless to suggest I wanted to try something else – it was far more enjoyable being recognised as a kind of ‘local’.

The vanishing sushi shop is a comfortable little place – with just one narrow bench to eat at, and an eclectic selection of magasines to read.

Vanished again? Just keep going south, and look for that red lantern.